Thursday, August 21, 2008

I Love National Land, Part I

We continued on to Bandelier National Monument, the site of a pueblo and cliff-dwellings, as well as a holy kiva high up the side of the mountains. It was a powerful, moving, and inspirational place: to sit inside a cliffside cave where people once lived, loved, worked, and played; to climb hundreds of ladder rungs to the most sacred location of an ancient village; to marvel in awe at the petroglyphs etched high on rock face depicting beings of this world and another. Here is one of a Toucan, which was likely acquired through trade with Central America:
Then we couch-surfed with some terrific folks for a couple of nights in Flagstaff, AZ. I LOVE this town!! It is youthful, picturesque, hip, and super-friendly. We made some new friends & also met up with my cousin Amy & her boyfriend Dave for a day-hike in nearby Coconino National Forest. Here Mel & I hugged our first Ponderosa Pine.
And then, of course, we couldn't pass up Grand Canyon National Park. It literally brought tears to my eyes. It is magnificent! And so big! The poster below is from the backcountry office in the park (demonstrating how hot the bottom of the canyon can get), making us ever more eager as we approach Burning Man next week!
The next stop was Zion National Park, where we took a lovely little hike to a waterfall, rode around in the shuttle listening to the driver tell bad jokes, and saw California Condors soaring above the cliffs.

Saturday, August 16, 2008

The Final Farm

Well, what excuse do I have for the lack of blogging except... I live in my car! I will summarize the past month in the next few blogs, provided you ask me for more detailed stories when I return to Maine in less than two weeks! (Look out Common Ground Fair, here I come!)

After El Vado Ark, we took a week-long vacation in Santa Fe. Our generous friends Kaylyn & Allison put us up for the whole week. They have the most adorable mutt, Sparrow. I love her. Our hostesses showed us the city in all its dog-park, taco-drive-through, flea-market, bar-hopping, shopping splendor. PLUS, we got to watch much of the beginning of the Olympic games, so we were often glued to that novelty called a television set.

We hadn't had enough of NM, and we were running out of money, so we decided to apply to another farm in the area. We ended up spending a week in Medanales, just north of Santa Fe, with two women who own & operate a ranch with a 100-year-old adobe house. Part of the building is a kiva, a room traditionally used in pueblos for ceremonial purposes. Gloria & Liz teach Toltec practices there. The women and their space were so peaceful and warm, I didn't want to leave!

On the mesa overlooking the ranch is the archaeological site called Leaf Water, which is believed to have been an irrigation site for pueblo-dwelling people around the mid 1200's. Here is a view of the ranch from the top of the mesa:
We also took some time to visit Abiquiu Lake, which was beautiful, and we all went to an Obama rally where Hillary spoke. Our time spent in Medanales was one of the highlights of country living on this trip.

Thursday, August 7, 2008

Foragers & Scavengers

On our final full day at El Vado Ark, we took to the high mountains of southern Colorado. Arvo taught us how to recognize edible & non-edible mushrooms, and we went a-foraging. We picked a bountiful array of chanterelles, puff balls, corals, & boletes (aka porcini). We also took some wild Osha root, which is used for lung & throat ailments. Wild mushroom foraging is something I have always wanted to do; as you can see by the photos, I was not disappointed! I'm also looking forward to driving through Colorado on the return trip - I already love the aspen, mountains, views, and of course mushrooms there!


On the way back to the farm, we drove through La Puente, a tiny town with several creepy abandoned houses. We got lots of great pics, and can now recommend a good place to shoot a Mexican horror film to anyone who's interested. Oh, and we also saw two large male elk here, which were Mel's first wild elk, so that was exciting, too.

There is one very important resident of El Vado Ark I haven't yet given proper introduction: Raven, aka Carlos. She was hand-raised by Arvo himself and has her own door to enter the house. She is very beautiful, smart, destructive, & opportunistic. She makes dozens of different sounds and even talks with Arvo. But his description of her is best, since he knows her most intimately. You can read it (and more about the farm) on his website here. One of our first nights there, we dined with Raven. She was hesitant at first, but as you can see by the last photo, she warmed up enough to me to sit by my shoulder curiously as I cleaned mushrooms!

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Jane Fonda's Toilet & Other Interesting Accomodations

Inside the Hermitory, our home for several days. Each night we slept here, we heard a family of coyote singing during the night. There were several pups trying their voices at howling for the first time. Magical!


Hermitory ceiling.


View of the arroyo from the Hermitory balcony.


Jane Fonda's former toilet, now usefully residing at El Vado Ark (with a new seat, so no bonus buns of steel residual energy).

In a Land Far, Far Away

New Mexico is brilliant! We passed through Santa Fe to pick up some groceries & then proceeded northward to our home for the next week, El Vado Ark. It is almost completely self-sustainable, built & run by one man, with solar & wind power, indoor greenhouses, gray water irrigation, rainwater catchment, bio-gas (from chicken waste) and even an outdoor adobe oven. We busied ourselves building a new trail, securing a fence, watering & tending plants, feeding chickens, monitoring the bio-diesel (aka chicken you-know-what), learning about alternative energy, and baking four loaves of no-knead bread in said adobe oven. (Now it seems that a future in baking may be in the works, too...)

It is beautiful, isolated country out here. Our host is demanding & particular, but generous, knowledgeable & proud to show off where he lives. His neighbors live in an earthship, a type of completely off-grid home that utilizes thermal/solar heating & cooling, solar & wind electricity, contained sewage treatment, building with recycled & natural materials, water harvesting and food production. We were able to visit this as well as view some other earthships in Taos, where the idea originated. It is a new goal of mine to build my own someday. When I enter one, the energy feels so positive, the residents so content. They are definitely happy homes.

Recycled wall material in an earthship.

Exterior of an earthship.